Help Desk
Welcome to our professional help where you will find lots of useful idea and advice on dressing your own curtain.
1) Measuring for curtain
2) Headings
3) Making curtain
4) Sheers
5) Hanging curtain
6) Accessories
7) Pelmets and Valance
8) Draperies
9) Blinds
10) Roller Blinds
11) Roman Blinds
12)Gathered Blinds
13) Louvres and Pleated Blinds
14) Slatted Blinds
15) Venetian Blinds
1) Measuring for curtain Measuring for curtain
a) Measure the length from the track or pole to the desired height : to the sill, to the top of a radiator below the sill or to the floor. Then ad allowances from hem and heading.
b) For the width,multiply the track or pole length by the required fullness of the desired heading tape.
c) Divide this measurement by the fabric width, rounding up the figure to the nearest full number for the number of fabric widths per curtain.
d) Multiply the curtain length by the number of fabric widths for the amount of fabric needed.
e) The amount of lining required will be the same as the amount of curtain fabric - but remember to deduct any extra that might have been required to match up patterns.
2) Headings
If you plan to have curtain without elaborate valances or pelmets, then design curtain heading itself will become an important feature. The choice of heading has as much to do with the length and proportion of the curtain as it does with personal taste.
Cased headings
Curtain such as café curtain, short nets and sheers and some long curtains - provided they are lightweight and unlined - can be attached with a simple sewn channel, made by turning over the top of the curtain and machine-sewing two rows of stitching to form a channel, through which a rod or expanding wire can be slotted. The gathered fabric makes a small frill, or heading, at the top. For the amount of fullness, allow about one and a half times the length of the rod. For the depth, measure from the top of the rod to the required curtain length plus 10 cm(4 in) for the hem and the correct heading allowance.
Cased heading Standard heading tape
Heading tapes These are narrow strips of strong fabric that can be bought by the metre in a variety of types and sizes. They are available in white and natural in both cotton and synthetic fibers. For example, lightweight synthetic tapes should be used for synthetic fabrics, sheers and nets. The tape usually have two or more cords running through the middle and when they are pulled up together from a gathered or pleated heading, depending on the style used. They also have slots for the hooks, which attach the tape to the curtain runners on the track. The deeper tapes have more than one row of slots so that the height of the curtain above the track can be adjusted by inserting the hooks in the either row of slots. Special tapes are also available for detachable linings to be used with any curtain heading tape. With pairs of curtains, it is important that the style of heading should match in the middle where they butt together - particularly on triple and cartridge - pleat tapes where there is a wide space between each group of pleats. This does not apply if you have an overlap arm on the track. To match the heading, always begin by placing the tape to the curtain edge that will fall in the middle of the track, starting in the centre of a pleat group.
Pencil pleat tape Detachable lining tape
Attaching standard tape
1.Snip into hem along fold line,
2.At one end of tape, note cords on
3.At opposite end of tape, pull out
4.Then thread the hooks to within 5mm of outer edge. wrong side. Turn under tape end and cords from the front, and gather up through the tape, evenly spaced Match edges : fold over. machine. curtain across the curtain.
STANDARD PLEATS
The tapes for standard pleats from a simple gathered heading suitable for all weights of fabric. Its plain, shallow heading is usually covered by a pelmet or valance. It is particularly useful for small unlined curtains.
CLUSTER PLEATS
This gives a fairly shallow heading of evenly spaced pleats suitable for all fabric weights.
PENCIL PLEATS
This tape makes a deeper, morn formal heading suitable for all types of unlined curtains, lined cotton and sheers, and some medium-weight fabrics for use with a track or pole. Spaced pencil-pleat tape is ideal for heavier fabrics. Make sure the gathers are evenly distributed.
TRIPLE PLEATS
Either straight or fanned, these from a deep, stiffened heading suitable for formal lined curtain of all lengths for use on a track or pole. They are ideal for all types of cottons, and medium - to heavy - weight fabrics.
CARTRIDGE PLEATS
These softly rounded and distinctly formal pleats are suitable for all types of curtain - especially for heavier, lined floor - length curtains.
DECORATIVE HEADINGS
These tapes give a crisp decorative appearance and can be used on short or long curtains - lined or unlined - using cotton, medium - weight or sheer fabrics.
BOX PLEATS
These give a semi-formal appearance and can be used for all type of curtains and sheers hung from a track or pole. They are especially good for thicker, lined curtains.
Standard One and a half to two times Cluster Required fullness is two times track length of fabric is needed. track length of fabric.
Pencil Fullness required is two and Space pencil pleats Two and a a quarter to two and a half times. quarter times the track length in fabric.
Triple pleats Are either straight or Decorative
For example smocking. fanned. Two times the track length. Two times the track length.
Box Semi-formal in appearance Cartridge Softly rounded pleats. these pleats are evenly spaced.
Two Two to two and a half times the track and a half times the track length. length of fabric is needed.
3) Making Curtains
Making unlined curtains
Apart from those curtains made from self-edged nets and sheer fabrics, the technique fro making an unlined curtain is basic to making any other type. Being by joining the fabric widths together using 1.5cm flat fell seams, have first removed or snipped into the selvedges. Turn over 2.5cm double turnings on the side edges and an 8cm double hem on the bottom edge, and press to the wrong side. Mitre the bottom corner. After basting and slip-stitching the mitre, continue to slip-stitch around the sides and hem using a matching-colored sewing thread, picking up only one or two threads of flat fabric with each stitch. Enclose weights in the hem, if needed, and finish the top edge with your chosen heading. MITRING A CORNER With the curtain wrong side up, and the side and bottom turnings pressed in place, mark the turnings at the other edge with pins. Unfold the corner to leave single turnings and then fold the fabric diagonally from pin to pin. Refold the side turning and the hem, baste and slip-stitch the mitre together working from the outer corner to the inside edge.
Unlined curtains
Making lined curtains Unless the curtains are semi-sheer and intended to filter light, use a lining. It will protect the curtain fabric from sunlight- giving it extra life - and reduce heat loss and noise.
Loose-lining
The side edges are stitched together, the top edges treated as one, and the bottom hems stitched separately. First, calculate the amount of fabric needed ; it should be 4 cm narrower than the finished curtain. Join the main fabric and lining widths, using 1.5cm flat seams. Clip into the selvedges, and raw edges, every 10-15cm, and press them open. With right sides together, place the lining to the main fabric and, taking 1.5cm of seams, machine- stitch the side to within 15cm of the lining edge. Clip the seams. Turn up a double 2.5cm hem on the lining, mitre the corners and slip-stitch to close. Machine-stitch the hem. Turn the curtain right side out, match the centres of both fabrics and press the side edges. Turn up a double 5cm hem on main fabric; mitre and finish as for unlined curtains. Slip-stitch the rest of the lining to side edges. Turn down top edge, cutting and turning in the corners at a slight angle. Add your chosen heading tape. Loose-lined curtain
